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Tools required for installation

Before you start make sure you have all safety and personal protection equipment ready to use.
You may require the following tools to aid installation:
Safety glasses, drill, circular saw (with a pvc 60+ tooth blade), marker pen, long straight edge, tape measure,
jigsaw, clamps (for cutting), sandpaper, scotch brite, wet area silicone, double sided tape and liquid nails.

Area preparation

Wall preparation: Make sure any joins in the wall are sealed with a clear, wet area silicone and wait until completely dry. Make sure the wall is free from peeling paint or any loose layers. Make sure all wallboard and surrounding surfaces are installed in accordance with your local building code.

Measure the wall area you will apply the splashback to, horizontally - top and bottom and vertically - left and right and minus 2-3mm from each edge where it meets a wall, socket, benchtop or cupboards etc. then mark this on the protective film layer on the splashback. Also measure and mark all sockets and switches which will need to be cut out before installation.

Cut outs for power points and switches

First of all, measure from the nearest surface to the centre of the power point horizontally and vertically and mark this on the protective layer, then; measure the outside of the switch plate (most are 115mm x 70mm) then minus 5mm back from each edge (105mm x 60mm) transfer these measurements directly onto the protective film of the splashback around the centre point you marked earlier. Drill 4 holes in the corners with a slightly blunt 5-6mm drill bit (a new sharp one may get caught in the acrylic and crack it), then use your jig saw to carefully and slowly cut along the lines to each hole. This will allow your power point or switch to sit on top of the acrylic and hide the cut edges like a pro! For around cupboards and long straight edges you can use a circular saw with a 60 tooth blade designed for cutting plastics (60 tooth minimum).

CNC Router cutting

If you don't have the power tools or not confident enough on them to cut accurately, try our router cutting service. We can accurately cut to your dimensions for a small fee, so all you have to do is fit your splashback when it turns up. Our router is computer controlled on a flat bed and has a high level of accuracy, this allows you to dream up any design and not have to worry about cutting your creation. Give us a try!

Fixing Acry-back to your chosen area

Remove one side of protective film from the acrylic which will be the side to adhere to the wall. With a scotch brite pad or sand paper, give this side a good scuffing up for optimum adhesion to the wall. Around all outer edges and around power point cut outs apply VHB mounting double sided tape then apply some through the middle areas of the splashback to aid adhesion to the wall whilst the silicone is curing. In addition to double sided tape also apply some beads of silicone in an ‘S' shape to aid in the adhesion to the wall (see below diagram). If you prefer to use screw fixings instead of tape and glue, identify all nogs and studs in the wall prior to drilling holes so you can ensure you will be screwing into a solid fixing.


Use 2-3mm tile spacers on the benchtop to sit the splashback on and between splashback joints to get an even gap when adhering to the wall. After fixing your new Acry-back splashback to the wall run a small bead of silicone around the edges and into joints where you left a 2-3mm gap (see note*). Before wiping excess silicone off, spray the silicone joint with a mild soapy water to avoid silicone sticking to surrounding benchtop & splashback surfaces, then proceed to wipe clear any excess silicone with a soft silicone spatula, to avoid scratching your splashback, you can buy this from the Acry-back website.


When sealing around the splashback, under the rangehood leave the top edge of the splashback unsealed to allow heat to escape.

Cutting & finishing techniques

To ensure the finished quality of the panel when making holes or cutting edges here are a few tips to help you achieve a good result.
When drilling holes for cutting out squares, use a slightly blunt drill bit to avoid the bit catching and cracking the acrylic, use the drill on a medium speed to avoid melting the acrylic. For larger holes use a step drill or a hole saw (below) designed for aluminium or plastic.

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